AI and molecular modeling yield keratin-targeting “Tripeptide-132.”
Tests show higher tensile strength and less breakage in damaged hair
Amorepacific announced on the 27th that it has developed a new peptide targeting hair keratin using artificial intelligence and molecular modeling, with the results published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. The company used molecular docking and molecular dynamics simulations to screen peptide candidates that selectively bind to keratin in damaged hair.
From about 8,000 candidates, researchers identified “Tripeptide-132” as a peptide with strong affinity for hair keratin. In tests, hair treated with this peptide showed up to a 44% increase in tensile strength and about a 50% reduction in breakage under repeated physical stress versus untreated hair. Cuticle analysis also showed smoother, better-aligned surfaces, indicating improved shine and feel.
(From left) Fluorescence image showing how the peptide binds inside the hair fiber, with green areas indicating peptide presence, and a molecular dynamics model explaining how the peptide is designed to strengthen hair keratin.
Amorepacific says the data suggest that reinforcing the internal structure of weakened hair can help strands withstand daily drying and styling with less snapping. The peptide is also expected to support softer, glossier hair by improving cuticle condition, which consumers notice immediately in use.
The company’s R&I Center has expanded its biotech work from skin barrier and microbiome research to scalp and hair, under a “Holistic Longevity” vision that links skin and hair health over time. “This study is an example of using AI and molecular design to target hair proteins precisely,” said Seo Byunghwi, CTO of Amorepacific R&I Center, adding that the company aims to keep strengthening its hair beauty portfolio with an AI-first approach.
The Tripeptide-132 technology is already used in COSRX products, including a shampoo, a treatment, and a hair bonding oil formulated for damaged hair.
By Min Byung-kwun, KDFN
kdf＠kdfnews.com
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